Saturday, December 17, 2005

January 2006 Issue

This month's articles

OPEN WIDE TO HAVE A SAND BLAST
I hope Bob Vokey is sitting down when he reads Mitchell’s Minute. As Titleist’s “wiseman of wedges” Bob might suggest that Mitchell get his eye at ground level and look at all the bounce that has been built on the sand wedge without having to open the face. Bob (and for that matter all the wedge designers) did not go to all the trouble to build expensive wedges that need to be opened in order to work well. Need more loft? By all means open the face. Just want to exit a normal greenside bunker? Use the club as it was made it will work just fine.

YOUR GAME
HOW TO BE STRAIGHT WHEN IT COUNTS. OK

NOW WHAT? This is way too much to think about. The shot is already challenging. Make the shot no more difficult than necessary. Look at photo 2. Yes, there’s a bunker but its really not in play. If you are concerned about how the club will interact with the sand, position the ball one ball back in your stance. Make your normal swing the club will contact the ball before it contacts the sand. Remember, when you play the ball back the club will be aimed slightly right at impact.

STOP YOUR REVERSE TILT AND CREATE POWER. So the answer to not tilting to your left is to tilt to your right? Does the photo at the top right of page 45 exactly like what he’s doing at the bottom right? Look at the difference in the angle of the yellow line. Keep it simple…set up correctly and then don’t tilt.

PLAY THE SAND, NOT THE BALL. Yes, a good mental image is of the sand pushing the ball out of the bunker. No, we don’t need to make a special back swing for this. Keep it simple…just lower your center (sternum) at address (you’ll have to fold your elbows to keep the club from touching the sand). On your forward swing allow your arms to relax and extend. The club will enter the sand nicely and out comes the ball.

HALF BURIED LIE. Ok

HOW TO GET TOUGH FROM THE ROUGH. Ok

HOW TO GO LEFT WHEN RIGHT IS DEATH. Unnecessarily complicated. Rather than changing your swing, just change your setup. First option, pick a target on the left side and align to the left. If you want the ball to curve left. Rotate your hand position to the right so that the “V’s” formed by your thumb and forefinger point over your right shoulder. Keep it simple.

HOW TO LAY OFF THE CHILI-DIP. This is a good example of a terminology problem. Chili-dip is often used to describe those shots when the club passes under the ball resulting in a small pop-up and the ball traveling forward only a small portion of the intended distance. However, Rick is using the term to describe a shot where the club makes a overly large divot. While it is reasonable that lowering one’s head could in turn lower the swing path into the ground, notice that while standing at address you can raise and lower your chin without moving the club. Only a small fraction of the time are chunked shots from body being lowered. Most of the time it is from excessive use of the right hand. Want to prove that too yourself. Take a half swing and attempt to make a large divot. You’ll notice that you did not lower your body, you instead used the right hand to drive the club head into the ground.

THINK YOUR WAY THROUGH THE WIND. A round of golf takes 4 hours, I’m sorry but wind conditions change. So knowing the reported windspeed before you tee off is not very relevant. Further, unless your are playing a course without trees the windspeed reported at some airport will probably not be representative of the course. Finally to complicate matters, the windspeed you experience at ground level is not the windspeed that will effect ball flight. Instead, recognize that evaluating the effect of the wind is a guess and that taking the wind into consideration is always better than overlooking it—even if your guess is wrong sometimes. A head wind always hinders more than a tail wind helps. So if you play into a wind and take an extra club to reach a green, expect that if the next hole is downwind its not going to allow you to take an 8iron instead of a 7iron. Finally, keep it simple when you are playing into the wind think twice about taking Paul’s advice about changing your swing—just take more club.

WHAT IS THE BIGGEST FACTOR HOLDING BACK AVERAGE GOLFERS FROM IMPROVEMENT? I like the importance Peter puts on understanding cause and effect. I was stunned by his comment that the cause for a slice is an open clubface. His analysis is partly correct. However, the club face can be perfectly square at impact but produce a slice if the path of the swing is outside-in.

HOW TO HIT A RELIABLE FADE. See above article about “reliable draw”. Position V’s toward left shoulder. Keep it simple. Change the setup not the swing.
ASK THE TOP 100. Ok

HOW TO SEE THE PERFECT PUTT. Ok

THE COOLEST SHOT. This is only cool if the dime it stops on is near the hole. Don’t waste your precious practice time on this “cool shot” after you perfect the rest of your shots.

HOW TO HONE YOUR FINESSE. Dave’s motion with the medicine ball demonstrates how the swinging motion of a toss is similar to the swinging motion of a golf swing. What this has to do with finesse isn’t apparent.

SWEEP YOUR SLICE AWAY. Let’s remember that the path of the swing is circular (including Bubba’s). Martin’s suggestion of the “bristles of the broom riding against the wall for the first two feet” turns the circle into something that I’m not even sure there is a name for. Keep it simple. If we do not need to “have the bristles ride along the wall” on the back swing we don’t need to have them do it on the forward swing. The club travels on the same plane (not the same path) back and forward.

DIVOT DECISIONS. Ok, but in the first situation don’t change your swing (chop down) just setup with the ball further back in your stance.

TWO WAY TO ADD POP. The elevated heel is one of the many gimmicky things that we can use to help us learn that is unnecessarily foreign to how we should play. If you think your shoulders at setup is a problem, check Michael Breed on page 83. The “walk and wack” has less to do with increasing our speed than it does to reveal the role rhythm plays in a good swing.

TAKEAWAY: USE A FORWARD PRESS. Ouch!! I wish someone would bury this idea once and forever. Make a forward press and hold that position. The hands are in front of the club face making the club face out-of-square (aiming right) or delofted—neither of which is how you want to start a shot. Making a smooth swing does not have anything to do with a forward press.

SHORT GAME: VARY YOUR DISTANCES. Ok.

TIGHTEN UP YOUR SWING. Having seen thousands and thousands of swings, I can’t imagine coaching anyone to tighten up. It is contrary to the overriding sense of fluid rhythm that characterizes the best swings.

REDUCE WRIST COCK. The wrists are hinges. The cocking and uncocking motion are reciprocal. Allow the swinging motion to hinge the wrists and to unhinge them. Trying to control the hinge introduces “hand action”—this is where trouble starts.

Get hippy to lose your slice. Slices occur because of swing path (outside-in) and clubface (out of square) problems. Your hips can’t cause or fix these.

MAINTAIN THE TRIANGLE. First of all, notice carefully how the two red triangles are not the same—it wasn’t maintained. In the setup drawing we see the “forward press” with the shaft pointing at the left shoulder. In the swing drawing (illustration of a good swing) the press is gone and the shaft of the club points correctly at the shirt buttons. Don’t focus on maintaining the triangle. Focus on swinging the club—this creates what could be observed as a maintained triangle.

Wednesday, December 07, 2005

December 2005

December '05 Golf Magazine Instruction Critique

Many golfers look to Golf Magazine for information to help them play better. Unfortunately, the instructional information often appears contradictory but, more seriously, too often it is problematic. By problematic, I mean that the words in the instruction don't match the picutres and that the instruction given cannot produce the results being sought. The objective of this blog is to alert players to such instruction.

This month's articles:

MAKE YOUR WEAK SLICE EXTINCT. Let's ask Michael if (for a million dollars) he could "bump the door" and still come over the top. Try it. The answer is yes. You might be able to "bump" and swing on the correct path but "bumping" will not rule out coming over the top. It's possible that "bumping" could in fact worsen your ball flight.

NOW WHAT. Mark's comments are ok. With regard to club selection, 52 and 56 degree wedges will produce an aggressive trajectory. Before you open the club face and make the shot more complicated than necessary, step on the club face (not in the bunker) with your foot making the club's face parallel to the ground. The shaft will be point up to the sky. Then angle of the shaft will give you an indication of the trajectory of the ball flight it will produce. Use this to determinie if you need to create added trajectory by opening the club face.

HOW TO TAME A PAR 5. Ok

ASK THE TOP 100
READING PUTTS. Ok
GRIP. Ok
SPIN. Ok
LONG BUNKER. Ok
TURN ON YOUR POWER. Craig says one thing and then does something else. Notice him doing the "chair drill"--how much weight shift is there? None. And that's the way it should be. A golfer will find great advantage in developing a swing built around being balanced through impact.
CASH IN ON YOUR SCORING CHANCES. Ok
I'M NINE STROKES BETTER. The grip change was ok. But the takeaway info is not. Brad's suggestion was that at waist high the clubhead is outside your hands( ie. the shaft of the club is pointing at you). From this position if you return the club to the ball you will see that the diretion of the swing is to the left. Instead, at waist high the shaft should be pointed parallel to the target line. Finally, not that Bad says, "You should feel as if you're starting the swing with a body turn and letting your hands follow along." But note that John (the student) explains that how he improved was, "I start my downswing with my arms, rather than my body." It's John (not Brad) whose got that one right.
THUMB IT, HIT A DRAW. OK
GROOVE YOUR STROKE TO A TEE. OK
SAVE PAR WITH THE CUT LOB. Many golfers have come upon ways they like to make the ball do this or that. However, many of those ways are too complicated and unnecesary. Always try to produce special ball flights by way of setup versus having to learn and perfect various swings. If you want a steep trajectory move the ball forward in your stance (aim more right) or open the club face (aim more left). Use your normal swing.

THE BEST SWING FOR YOUR BODY TYPE. Beware this article is filled with problems. First, it virutally impossible to tell if a tee sticking out of the butt of your grip is pointing at the target line or six inches either side of it (and that's assuming you even have a chalk line laid out on the ground). On page 94 it is suggested that this body type may have insufficient hip turn. On the same page it is suggest that a wider stance be used--but a wider stance further inhibits turning. This wider stance is then combined with a lateral shift of the hips that makes correctly returning the club to the ball very unlikely.

TAKE A WRIST FOR POWER. OK

CONQUER WET SAND. OK

COPY OLAZABAL'S TURN AND SHIFT. OK

GET IN POSITION FOR YOUR PUTT. This article has problems. See page 70 from last month's issue for correct set up.

November '05 Golf Magazine Instruction Critique

Many golfers look to Golf Magazine for information to help them play better. Unfortunately, the instructional information often appears contradictory but, more seriously, too often it is problematic. By problematic, I mean that the words in the instruction don't match the picutres and that the instruction given cannot produce the results being sought. The objective of this blog is to alert players to such instruction.

This month's articles:

KNOW YOUR ROLL. Good

HOW TO FIND THE HOT SPOT. Peter got this one close to right. His conclusion is that when you "catch one flush" that identifies the hot spot. "Flush" just means that the club face was square to the target line at impact. You can catch it flush any number of places on the face. To really find the hot spot you'll need a launch monitor and face tape on the club. If you decide to go through with finding the hot spot, the "stepping forward" drill is probably going to make hitting that little spot a lot more difficult. Remeber the mark on the driver is less than a half inch in diameter. Hitting that small of a spot will keeping your balance will be challenging enough. Hitting when you "step forward" makes it much less likely. Only try this if after a few session you can't make contact near the spot. The same goes Peter's idea for "ditching" your long tees.

NOW WHAT. This is more complicated than it needs to be. Always ask, "What can I do to adjust the ball flight that does not require me to change my swing at all." Want more height? Do either or both of these to set up changes: 1)position the ball further forward in your stance but swing as though the ball was in its normal position. When the blade meets the ball it will produce a higher trajectory. The ball flight will be left of target so compensate in your alignment, 2) Open the club face at address by rotating the grip in your hands. When you look down at the club it will have more loft and be aimed right. Again, adjust you alignment. A higher trajectory ball flight results from setup changes--NOT swing chagnes.

PULL DOWN FOR POWER. A golf swing is by definition circular. Pulling is linear. Pulling has not place in a golf swing. It creates habits that can ruin your golf. Stay away from pulling. Power is a good thing. Pulling is not.

HOW TO GO LOW. This is more complicated than it needs to be. Always ask, "What can I do to adjust the ball flight that does not require me to change my swing at all." Want more height? Do either or both of these to set up changes: 1)position the ball further back in your stance but swing as though the ball was in its normal position. When the blade meets the ball it will produce a lower trajectory. The ball flight will be right of target so compensate in your alignment, 2) Close the club face at address by rotating the grip in your hands. When you look down at the club it will have less loft and be aimed left. Again, adjust you alignment. A lower trajectory ball flight results from setup changes--NOT swing chagnes.

PUTT OR CHIP FROM THE FRINGE. Good

LET IT SLIDE. Good

A WEDGE BETWEEN US. Ok. But don't forget that your highest percentages for getting it close is with your lower lofted clubs. Use them every time you have plenty of green to work with.

SPEAK OUT. All are good except for Gale's comment. Hitting down (contacting the ball above its equator) can NEVER make the ball go up.

FULL CONTACT. Varying the position of each club at address is unnecessary and promotes inconsistency. All the clubs can work quite well if you play them all in the middle of your stance.

BURIED ALIVE. Good

TEN MOST WANTED SHOTS
SUPER LONG SUPER STRAIGHT DRIVE. Mike's recommendation is excellent for all shots.
SHORT IRON STOPS ON DIME. Hitting a ball off a tee will always optomize back spin. Here's a reliable formula: anytime you increase the loft of a shot or increase the speed of a swing, you increase back spin.
POWER DRAW. This swing changes is dangerous and requires split second timing. If you want a draw, just rotate the grip to close the club face, aim right, and don't change your swing.
LEFT TO RIGHT PUTT. OK
GO-FOR-IT FAIRWAY WOOD. Good concept. Accidental contact with the club laying across the bag could be disasterous.
LOW STINGER. Always steer away from instruction that uses a swing change to alter your ball flight. See above for lower shots.
HIGH SOFT PITCH. Always steer away from instruction that uses a swing change to alter your ball flight. See above for higher shots.
HALF WEDGE. OK
EASY-OUT. OK
LAG PUTT. Points #2 and #3 are ok. If you were going to toss a ball into a bucket, would you find yourself trying to imagine the apex of the toss so that the ball would then fall into the bucket? I don't think so. Your attention would always be on the bucket. ALWAYS keep your target in your mind. If it is a breaking putt your target will be to the side of the hole.

TRACK YOUR TAKEAWY. Ouch! The small inset photo is a problem. Notice how the shaft is leaning forward. Now look at the larger illustration with the butt of the club against the sternum. The shaft should never lean forward for normal shots.

POWER PRIMER. GOOD

COMETE IN PRACTICE. OK

FINISH FOR POWER. OK

SOLID-CONTACT WALL DRILL. OK